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A hard but exhilarating day. The crew reduced our 14-foot inflatable dinghy into a small parcel. Then Toshi, Barbara and Vito endured sauna-like conditions in the aft lazarette to wedge it into it's storage place in preparation for the next crew's ocean passage to Hawaii.
We were in for heavy winds on this 25 mile upwind sail to Raiatea. We double reefed the main and hanked on our #4 jib-top and storm trysail. Lena expertly steered us out Bora Bora's pass under sail. She smiles wide when on the helm! We hugged the atoll's foaming reef in 22 knots of breeze, skimming the sharp coral teeth as we headed south toward our final destination. Bora Bora's famous lagoon glowed vibrant lapis and aqua as we hissed along in the smooth water of the Island's lee. Bora Bora is a chameleon, changing her spectacular rugged profile from every different direction.
The whole trip has been challenged by reinforced trade winds and squalls. But Alaska Eagle's crew proved worthy of the task, sailing in and out of passes and changing sails as conditions warranted. It has been a joy to watch them evolve from hesitant participants to a well co-ordinated crew.
Captain Brad has been our choreographer, expertly selecting the right crew member for the task at hand and showing patience when our learning curve was steep. We have grown as sailors and as a team. Bruce and Vito's patience, culinary skills and sailing acumen have made it a joy to be part of the OCC crew.
The last bit of navigation through the reef strewn lagoon of Tahaa/Riatea was tricky in the 25 knot headwinds. We safely arrived alongside the wharf in downtown Utaroa at sunset on Tuesday, just across from a fine French restaurant where Alaska Eagle's crew celebrated the end of a wonderful exploration of the Society Islands.
- Barbara
Today we remain anchored at Bora Bora Yacht Club in Faanui Bay sheltered from the SE gusts. Morning clean-up of dishes, floors, heads and cockpits was with watch mates Bob, Karla and nice helper Mary Jo. We used hot water with vinager on toilets and floors to get the boat very clean.
Around 11:00 AM Captain Brad, Barbara, Vito, Melinda and I went on shore and rented a car to go around to see the sites of Bora Bora. We saw deep blue waters in the lagoons, and many thatched-roof bungalow hotel-rooms over the water. That is what these islands are famous for. We had lunch at the Bounty Restaurant, close to the beach. Good food, however we were attacked by low flying mosquitos biting our ankles. At Hotel Bora Bora I saw the lovely polynesian sailing canoe, just like the photo in my Tahiti tour book. Today the winds were blowing too strong, 25-30 knots, so no one was allowed to sail the canoe. The canoe has no rudder, so we were not sure how the sails are set or how it is steered.
By 5:00 PM we were back aboard the Alaska Eagle. The boat next to ours had a young lady from Santa Barbara named Liz Clark. She is single-handed sailing a Cal 40 named "Swell"to the world's best surf spots. Liz is the same age as my daughter, who is 28 years old. Barbara interviewed her for Crusing World Magazine.
I am having a nice sailing experience and seeing beautiful islands of the South Pacific, hope you are having a good time too... Toshi
Today was one of our most interesting and adventuresome days. We were peacefully anchored out of the houling winds, tucked into Hurepiti Bay on Tahaa. Raising anchor we headed north in the lagoon to anchor near the village of Tiva's old church. The Alaska Eagle crew put on their best Sunday church attire to attend services pastored by a minister from New Zealand. Entering the church was like going back in time, the songs spoke to us in ancient polynesian harmonies and oil lamps were suspended from the sky-blue ceiling. The alter was decorated in fragarant tiare flowers and colorful tropical blossoms.
Winds accelerated as we headed south out of the protection of the island towards the Passe Pai Pai and Brad prepared us for a tough passage by double reefing the main and readying the staysail. MaryJo reluctantly took the helm but beautifully steered us through the Passe on our way to Bora Bora. We dropped the staysail put up the pole and sailed wind on wing in twenty five - thirty knot winds and large swells. Turning the corner on Bora Bora's southwest reef edge we gyped and couldn't see the passe to Bora Bora until we were abreast of it. Again, Brad challenged the crew to drop the pole and jib to enter the passage with staysail and main. With Bob at the helm we skirted the reef and entered the passage hard to weather. The crew completed two rather challenging tacks before anchoring under sail in a protected anchorage at the Bora Bora Yacht Club.
Greeting us at our new anchorage was Liz, a young woman who just completed a single-handed passage from Fanning Island to Bora Bora. We wrapped up our day with a celebration of Ed's 67th birthday and toasting Father's Day. Chef Bruce had secretly baked a great birthday cake. The crew enjoyed champagne from Lena and Ed, birthday hats and wonderful comraderie. Karla continued to keep everyone laughing and Toshi rapped up the celebration with a Japanese song played on his flute. The entire crew is looking forward to a day of rest on Bora Bora and hopes that the weather will settle down before the return passage to Raiatia.
Steve and Scott don't forget Father's Day on the 21st. -Al
Spent a windy night tucked into Baie Haave on Huahine Nui, left under mainsail via
Passe Avapehi at 9 am. Hoisted the #2 Jib for a beautiful downwind sail in large
Southern Ocean swells and 25 knots of wind. We sailed 10 nautical miles and
successfully entered Passe Toahotu on Tahaa Island under sail and then briefly
touched the sand bottom while anchoring north of Ile Mahaea. After lunch and a
snorkeling expedition in aqua waters, we circumnavigated Tahaa tacking on mainsail
and staysail threading our way through a maze of lateral red and green markers.
Last night as the setting sun warmed the lush tropical shoreline, we raced local outrigger canoes down Maroe Bay on the east side of Huahine Island. This bay, which separates Huahine Nui from Huahine Iti, is so large and protected it feels more like a lake.
Sailed from Moorea to Huahine. Longest single day of sailing for this leg. Up at 4:30 am to ready the vessel. Due to variable winds, motor sailed most of day. Rain squall, about 30 minutes, late afternoon, nothing other to remark while underway.
Sailed into Port Bourayne approximately 4:30 pm, where upon Captain insisted on hoisting the spinnaker and foisting great educational duty upon the bone-tired crew...we love Brad.
Greeted by Huahine outrigger crew who demonstrated great interest, hoping the crew would be all-female, but alas, not enough estrogen to induce them onboard.
While regaled with the awful story of Penhryn, we managed to inbibe and revive. Mucho lovo to all the families of Ed, Lena, Al and Karla, Bob and Mary Jo, Toshi, Vito, Bruce, Barbara, Melinda and Captain Brad.
Au revoir et nana!
Anchor up in Cook's Bay Moorea at 0500 and cleared the pass through the reef at 0550 with Ed doing the piloting and Lena steering. We made good use of the range lights to find our way between the reefs. Huahine is our destination, 80 miles to the WNW. Toshi played his flute yesterday in the middle of an ancient Marae, surrounded by a stone wall and giant
Mape (Tahitian Chestnut) trees. A few hours later we were all at a tradional dance, and Toshi took over on the slit drum, pounding out a solid rhythm with ten Tahitian musicians.
It is now our second evening in Moorea. It has been a full 24 hours.
Sailed full on into Cook's Bay under main and jib, Lena at helm supervised by Brad. Circled the bay as we dropped sails then anchored off Point Paveau for snorkeling. After a freshwater shower anchored in Cook's Bay.
Today rented three cars for the crew to circle Moorea, beautiful day on this lush island. Returned in time to see a Tahitian dance show. We are now preparing the boat for a very early departure to the island Huahine.
Just another day in Paradise!
Sailing now between Tahiti and Moorea, Karla is on the helm; Barbara coaching, occasional whoop from Karla as Alaska Eagle slides off a big blue swell at ten knots, pushed by 22 knots of wind. Al and Bruce have spooled out dueling lures, hoping for a Mahi Mahi or the elusive Wahoo.
Bob put in a tradional Polynesian CD, and with Moorea's spires ahead, we've got a real South Pacific scene going on. Before departing Papeete harbor, we put Alaska Eagle alongside the three masted, 280 foot Millennium Falcon for a photo op, hard to get all of the huge yacht in the frame, with Alaska Eagle looking like a Cal 20.